Pearls are treasured gemstones, admired for their beauty and timeless appeal. This guide will provide detailed steps to help you identify real pearls—but we always recommend you visit a jeweler to confirm their authenticity.
What Are Real Pearls?
Real pearls are formed naturally or through human intervention inside mollusks, such as oysters or mussels. There are two types of real pearls: natural and cultured. Natural pearls form without any human interference, making them extremely rare and valuable. Cultured pearls are created when a foreign object is intentionally placed inside the mollusk to encourage the formation of a pearl.
Real pearls consist of multiple layers of nacre, a substance produced by the mollusk to protect itself from irritants. This nacre builds up over time, resulting in a pearl’s smooth surface, iridescent glow, and unique luster. You can learn more in our Pearl Guide.
What Are Fake Pearls?
Fake pearls, also known as imitation pearls, are crafted from various materials, such as glass, plastic, or resin. Unlike real pearls, fake pearls do not contain nacre and are often coated with a substance that mimics the appearance of a pearl’s shine. Please note that we do not carry fake pearls at Brilliant Earth.
How to Tell if Pearls Are Real by Looking at Them
Visually distinguishing real pearls from fake ones requires an eye for detail. Real pearls tend to have a subtle variation in their shape, size, and color, whereas fake pearls often appear perfectly uniform. Here are some specific visual cues:
- Surface Texture: Real pearls are not perfectly smooth. They often have slight surface irregularities, such as tiny ridges or bumps, due to the natural formation process. Fake pearls, on the other hand, tend to have a flawless, glass-like surface.
- Luster: One of the most telling characteristics of real pearls is their luster. Real pearls reflect light in a deep, almost three-dimensional way, giving them a rich glow. Fake pearls may shine but often have a flat, reflective quality that lacks depth.
- Color Variations: While pearls come in a variety of colors, real pearls often exhibit subtle color variations or overtones. Fake pearls, especially lower-quality imitations, usually have a single, uniform color.
How to Tell if Pearls Are Real: At-Home Test Methods
There are a few simple, at-home tests that can provide a general sense for whether a pearl is real or not. However, these methods are not foolproof. For concrete verification, we recommend visiting a jeweler for professional testing.
1. Tooth Test
One of the most common ways to test pearls is the tooth test. Gently rub the pearl against the edge of your front teeth. A real pearl will feel slightly gritty or rough due to the layers of nacre, while a fake pearl will feel smooth or glassy.
2. Weight Test
Real pearls tend to be heavier than imitation pearls due to the density of their nacre. Hold the pearls in your hand and compare their weight. Fake pearls, especially those made from plastic, will feel noticeably lighter.
3. Magnifying Glass Test
Using a magnifying glass, examine the pearl’s surface closely. Real pearls will show minor imperfections, while fake pearls will have a smooth, uniform appearance.
4. Temperature Test
Real pearls tend to feel cool to the touch initially and warm up as they rest against your skin. Fake pearls, particularly those made from plastic, will feel warm right away.
The Best Way to Tell if Pearls Are Real
While at-home tests can provide helpful insight, an independent grading laboratory or professional jeweler can perform specialized tests or that can accurately authenticate a pearl.
1. Microscopic Analysis
A jeweler may also use a microscope to examine the pearl’s surface and internal structure. Under magnification, the natural crystalline structure of nacre is visible in real pearls, while fake pearls will lack this texture.
2. Refractometer Test
Real pearls have specific light refractive properties due to their organic composition. A refractometer can measure how light passes through the pearl, providing a more technical assessment of its authenticity.
3. Ultraviolet Light Test
When exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light, real pearls may fluoresce or glow slightly, depending on their origin. Imitation pearls generally do not fluoresce or may exhibit an unnatural glow.