Start with Our Diamond Quiz
What Is Diamond Shape?
Diamond shape refers to the geometric outline or external silhouette of a diamond when viewed from above. Shape is the primary visual characteristic that influences a diamond's overall appearance and style.
Shape is often one of the first attributes considered when shopping for a diamond. While round diamonds are the most traditional choice, fancy shapes (any non-round shape) offer alternative aesthetics that may better suit your personal style.
Diamond Shape vs. Diamond Cut Meaning
While diamond shape and diamond cut are often used interchangeably, they are not the same. Diamond shape refers to the outline or external form of the diamond, such as round, oval, or princess. On the other hand, diamond cut refers to how well the diamond's facets interact with light, which affects its brilliance, fire, and scintillation. The cut quality is determined by the diamond's proportions, symmetry, and polish. A diamond's shape is its physical form, while its cut quality influences its visual performance. You can choose any shape for a diamond and then get a specific cut, like Super Ideal, Ideal, Very Good, or Good, depending on how much light reflection and sparkle you want.
Popular Diamond Ring Shapes
Round Shaped Diamonds
The round diamond shape, also known as round brilliant, is a traditional shape and one of the most popular. It features 57 or 58 facets that maximize its brilliance and fire. Round diamonds display incredible light performance due to their symmetrical shape and precisely cut proportions, making it a timeless choice for engagement rings and other fine jewelry.
Round diamonds are particularly sought after for their exceptional sparkle, as their facet arrangement is specifically designed to reflect light back to the viewer's eye. This classic shape complements virtually any hand size and ring setting style, from solitaire to halo designs.
Oval Shaped Diamonds
Oval diamonds are elongated and elegant, offering a unique twist on the classic round shape. The elongated form can make the finger appear longer and slimmer, making it a flattering choice for many wearers. This shape combines the brilliance of the round cut with a more distinctive silhouette, giving it both traditional appeal and modern character.
The oval shape's elongated outline creates what jewelers call the "spread effect," where the diamond appears larger than other shapes of equal carat weight. Oval diamonds often show excellent fire and brilliance, though they may sometimes display the "bow-tie effect" (a dark area across the center). When properly cut, oval diamonds strike an excellent balance between uniqueness and timeless elegance, making them increasingly popular engagement ring choice.
Cushion Shaped Diamonds
Cushion-shaped diamonds have rounded corners and brilliant facets. This shape combines a square or rectangular outline with soft, rounded edges, giving it a vintage yet contemporary appeal. Cushions can have a "chunky" or "crushed ice" appearance based on the facet arrangement, offering different aesthetic options to suit personal taste.
With roots dating back nearly 200 years, cushion cuts were once the most popular diamond shape before the development of the modern round brilliant. Their romantic, pillow-like appearance makes them excellent for vintage-inspired settings, while still offering the fire and sparkle expected in contemporary jewelry designs.
Princess Shaped Diamonds
The princess cut is a modern and popular choice, known for its sharp, square shape with pointed corners. It offers a high level of brilliance due to its facet arrangement, combining traditional and contemporary styles. The princess shape works well in various settings and is often chosen for its bold and dramatic look.
Princess cut diamonds typically feature 76 facets that create an exceptional amount of sparkle and scintillation. Their geometric, clean lines make them versatile for multiple setting styles, from classic solitaires to more elaborate designs. Additionally, the princess cut is known for being less prone to showing inclusions than some other shapes, making it both beautiful and practical.
Pear Shaped Diamonds
Pear-shaped diamonds, also known as teardrop diamonds, combine the best features of round and marquise shapes. This unique shape has a rounded end on one side and a pointed tip on the other, creating a stunning, asymmetrical design.
When set in a ring, pear diamonds can be positioned with the point facing toward or away from the wearer, offering flexibility in styling. Pear cuts require skilled craftsmanship to ensure proper symmetry and to avoid the bow-tie effect, which can appear across the center of some pear diamonds. When well-cut, they offer exceptional brilliance while making a distinctive statement that stands out from more common diamond shapes.
Emerald Shaped Diamonds
Emerald-shaped diamonds are known for their step-cut facets, creating a "hall of mirrors" effect. This rectangular shape with beveled corners emphasizes clarity and luster over brilliance, offering a sophisticated and elegant look. Emerald cuts are ideal for those who appreciate understated, timeless beauty and prefer depth over sparkle.
Emerald diamonds have fewer facets than brilliant cuts, which means they don't hide imperfections as easily but instead highlight the diamond's other qualities. Emerald cuts offer a refined elegance that appeals to those with classic taste, and their elongated shape can make fingers appear longer.
Marquise Shaped Diamonds
Marquise diamonds have an elongated shape with pointed ends, that create a striking and elegant appearance. This shape often maximizes carat weight, making the diamond appear larger than other shapes of the same weight. Marquise diamonds are excellent for those seeking a unique and dramatic look.
The distinctive look of the marquise cut has an interesting history, allegedly designed to resemble the smile of the Marquise de Pompadour at the request of King Louis XV of France. Today, marquise diamonds are prized for their ability to elongate the finger and their impressive surface area, which can make them appear larger than round diamonds of the same carat weight. Their brilliant facet pattern provides sparkle, while their unique silhouette guarantees they'll stand out in any setting.
Asscher Shaped Diamonds
Asscher-shaped diamonds feature a square shape with trimmed corners and a step-cut facet pattern. This shape is similar to the emerald cut with a higher crown and smaller table. The Asscher cut offers a vintage charm and is often chosen for its distinct and bold appearance.
Developed in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Holland, the Asscher cut features concentric squares creating a fascinating "windmill" pattern when viewed from above. This Art Deco-inspired cut experienced a revival in popularity in the early 2000s and continues to attract those who appreciate its architectural elegance. An Asscher's unique faceting creates a captivating play of light that's different from the sparkle of brilliant cuts — instead offering a clear, hall-of-mirrors effect that showcases the diamond's clarity and color.
Radiant Shaped Diamonds
Radiant-shaped diamonds combine the elegant outline of the emerald shape with the brilliance of the round shape. This square or rectangular shape with trimmed corners and a brilliant-cut facet pattern offers a unique blend of sparkle and elegance. Radiant cuts are versatile and work well in various settings.
Developed in the 1970s, the radiant cut was specifically designed to combine the best features of emerald and round diamonds. Its 70 facets create exceptional fire and brilliance while maintaining the sophisticated outline of a step-cut stone. Radiant diamonds hide inclusions better than emerald and Asscher cuts, making them both practical and beautiful.
Heart Shaped Diamonds
Heart-shaped diamonds are a romantic and symbolic choice. They require precise cutting to ensure symmetry and brilliance, making it one of the most challenging shapes to perfect.
Typically containing 56 to 58 facets, heart-shaped diamonds offer impressive brilliance when well-cut. For the best visual impact in smaller carat weights, heart diamonds are often set in bezel or three-prong settings that protect the delicate point while highlighting the distinctive shape.
Diamond Shapes Chart
To help visualize the differences between diamond shapes, here's a comparative overview of the most popular options:
Shape | Features | Facets |
|---|---|---|
Round | The classic circular shape with maximum sparkle | 58 |
Princess | Square or rectangular with pointed corners | 58-76 |
Cushion | Square or rectangular with rounded corners (pillow-like) | 58-64 |
Oval | An elongated round brilliant | 56-58 |
Emerald | Rectangular with stepped facets and cropped corners | 57 |
Asscher | Square with stepped facets and cropped corners | 58-74 |
Radiant | Square or rectangular with brilliant faceting and cropped corners | 70 |
Marquise | Boat-shaped with pointed ends | 58 |
Pear | Teardrop shape with one pointed and one rounded end | 58 |
Heart | Shaped like a heart with a cleft and point | 59 |
Trillion | Triangular with either pointed or rounded corners | 31-50 |
Baguette | Rectangular step-cut, usually used as accent stones | 14 |
European | Antique predecessor to the modern round brilliant | 58 |
Mine | Antique predecessor to the modern cushion cut | 58 |
Rose | Flat-bottomed with a domed top and triangular facets | 3-24 |
Diamond Shape FAQ
What is diamond length-to-width ratio?
Length-to-width ratios are a key measurement in determining the proportion and appearance of certain diamond shapes. This ratio is calculated by dividing the length of the diamond by its width, providing a numerical value that describes the diamond's outline. For example, a diamond with a length of 10mm and a width of 5mm would have a length-to-width ratio of 2.0. This ratio is particularly important for elongated diamond shapes such as oval, marquise, pear, and emerald cuts, where the proportion greatly affects the diamond's appearance. For example:
- Visual Appearance: The ratio can make a diamond appear longer and slimmer or shorter and broader. An oval diamond with a higher length-to-width ratio will look more elongated, while one with a lower ratio will appear more rounded.
- Maximized Brilliance: Diamonds with well-balanced proportions reflect light more effectively, enhancing their brilliance and sparkle.
- Enhanced Visual Size: A well-proportioned diamond can appear larger than one with poor proportions. For example, a marquise diamond with the right length-to-width ratio will maximize its surface area, making it look more substantial on the finger.
By selecting diamonds with ideal length-to-width ratios, buyers can ensure their diamonds have a balanced and aesthetically pleasing appearance, enhancing the overall beauty and appeal of their jewelry.
What is the best diamond shape?
There is no objectively "best" diamond shape — it's a matter of personal preference. Round brilliant diamonds offer the most sparkle and are the most popular, but each shape has its own unique appeal. The best shape is the one that speaks to your personal style.
What is the most expensive diamond shape?
Round diamonds are typically the most expensive due to their high demand. The precision required to cut a round diamond to achieve optimal brilliance also contributes to its higher price.
What diamond shape looks the biggest?
Diamond shapes that maximize surface area, such as marquise, oval, and pear, tend to look larger than other shapes of the same carat weight. These shapes elongate the diamond, creating the illusion of a bigger size. Choosing a shape with a larger table facet can also enhance the diamond's apparent size.
What are fancy cut diamond shapes?
Fancy cut diamonds include any shape other than the standard round brilliant. The term encompasses princess, cushion, emerald, asscher, oval, marquise, pear, radiant, and heart shapes.
What are elongated diamond shapes?
Elongated diamond shapes have a rectangular or oblong appearance rather than square or round. These include oval, pear, marquise, elongated cushion, elongated radiant, and emerald cuts. These shapes create a slimming effect on the finger and often appear larger than other shapes of the same carat weight due to their larger surface area. Popular length-to-width ratios for these shapes range from 1.2:1 to 2.0:1, depending on the specific cut.
What is the most popular diamond shape?
The round brilliant diamond is the most popular shape, chosen for its timeless appeal and unmatched brilliance. Its versatility and classic design make it a favorite for engagement rings and other fine jewelry. Other popular shapes include princess, oval, and cushion, each offering unique aesthetic qualities.
Which diamond shape sparkles the most?
Round brilliant diamonds are renowned for their exceptional sparkle due to their ideal facet arrangement and symmetrical shape. The round shape maximizes light performance, producing the highest level of brilliance, fire, and scintillation.
How do diamonds get their shape?
Diamonds get their shape through a precise cutting process performed by skilled diamond cutters who transform rough diamond crystals into polished gems. This process involves several steps:
- Planning: Cutters analyze the rough diamond using advanced technology to determine how to maximize its value.
- Cleaving or sawing: The rough is separated into workable pieces.
- Bruting: The diamond is given its basic shape by grinding against another diamond.
- Faceting: Precise facets are cut and polished onto the stone.
- Final inspection: The diamond is evaluated for cut quality and symmetry.
The cutter must balance maximizing the diamond's carat weight with achieving optimal proportions and minimizing flaws.
Can you change the shape of a diamond?
Changing the shape of a diamond is possible but involves re-cutting the stone, which can result in a loss of carat weight and potential value. This process requires skilled craftsmanship to ensure the new shape maximizes the diamond's brilliance and maintains its structural integrity. It is typically done to enhance the diamond's appearance or to repair damage.
What are the different diamond shapes?
The most widely used diamond shapes are round brilliant, princess, cushion, emerald, oval, pear, marquise, asscher, radiant, and heart. Beyond these standard shapes, several specialized or less common shapes exist: trillion, baguette, European, mine, rose, briolette, kite, tapered baguette, calf, and shield.
What diamond shape elongates fingers?
Elongated diamond shapes create the illusion of longer, slimmer fingers. The most effective shapes for elongating fingers include:
- Marquise: The pointed ends extend along the finger axis, creating maximum length
- Oval: The elongated shape draws the eye up and down the finger
- Pear: Combines the elongating effect with a unique asymmetry
- Emerald: The rectangular shape with its clean lines extends finger appearance
- Elongated Cushion: Provides both elongation and soft edges
For maximum elongating effect, these shapes should be set with the length running along the finger rather than across it. North-south settings (along the finger) visually extend finger length, while east-west settings (across the finger) can make fingers appear wider.
What diamond shape makes fingers look thinner?
Certain diamond shapes can create the optical illusion of slimmer fingers. The most effective shapes for this purpose include:
- Marquise: The elongated shape with pointed ends draws the eye vertically
- Oval: Creates a lengthening effect without pointed edges
- Pear: The asymmetrical design elongates while adding unique character
- Emerald: The rectangular proportions extend the finger's appearance
To maximize the slimming effect:
- Choose settings that position the longest dimension of the diamond along the finger
- Opt for narrower band widths that won't visually widen the finger
- Consider a halo setting that emphasizes the diamond's elongated shape
- Avoid wide, chunky settings that can make fingers appear shorter or wider
What is the natural shape of a diamond?
In its natural, uncut state, a diamond typically forms as an octahedral crystal — essentially two pyramids joined at their bases, creating an eight-sided shape. This octahedral structure reflects diamond's crystal system and the way carbon atoms bond under extreme pressure deep within the Earth.
The majority of gem-quality diamonds found in nature have an octahedral structure, which diamond cutters must transform into the familiar polished shapes we recognize in jewelry. The octahedral shape explains why the round brilliant cut was developed — it works efficiently with the natural crystal structure while maximizing brilliance.
What is the most timeless diamond shape?
The round brilliant cut is widely considered the most timeless diamond shape. Its classic appeal has endured for over a century, making it a truly evergreen choice. Round diamonds have dominated the engagement ring market for generations and show no signs of losing their popularity.
Other shapes with timeless appeal include:
- Cushion cuts: These have been popular since the early 1900s
- Emerald cuts: Their clean, architectural lines have remained fashionable for decades
- Oval cuts: Their balanced design combines classic and contemporary elements
These classic shapes have demonstrated enduring appeal across generations, making them great choices for those concerned about long-term style relevance.
What shape diamond is the least expensive?
Asscher and emerald cuts are typically the least expensive diamond shapes per carat. This price advantage stems from lower manufacturing costs, lower demand, and different cutting priorities (clarity over brilliance). However, it's important to note that these shapes emphasize a diamond's clarity, so you may need to select a higher clarity grade, which can offset some of the cost savings if you want a truly eye-clean stone.
How many diamond shapes are there?
There are 10 commonly recognized diamond shapes available in the jewelry market: round, princess, cushion, oval, emerald, asscher, radiant, marquise, pear, heart. Beyond these standard shapes, several specialized or less common shapes exist: trillion, baguette, European, mine, rose, briolette, kite, tapered baguette, calf, and shield. Many of these less common shapes are used as accent stones in multi-stone settings rather than as center stones.
How do you know which ring shape suits you?
The right diamond shape for your ring largely depends on your finger's characteristics and personal style preferences. Beyond physical considerations, your lifestyle and fashion sensibilities matter too—active individuals might prefer secure settings with rounded edges, while those drawn to vintage aesthetics might gravitate toward cushion or asscher cuts. Ultimately, while these guidelines can help narrow your options, the perfect ring shape should resonate with your personal style and feel comfortable on your finger.
