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Real Pearls vs. Fake Pearls
Real pearls are formed naturally or through human intervention inside mollusks, such as oysters or mussels. There are two types of real pearls: natural and cultured. Natural pearls form without any human interference, and are in fact unavailable in today’s market, making them extremely rare and valuable. Cultured pearls are created when a foreign object is intentionally placed inside the mollusk to encourage the formation of a pearl.
Real pearls consist of multiple layers of nacre, a substance produced by the mollusk to protect itself from irritants. This nacre builds up over time, resulting in a pearl's smooth surface, iridescent glow, and unique luster.
In contrast, fake pearls, also known as imitation pearls, are crafted from various materials, such as glass, plastic, or resin. Unlike real pearls, fake pearls do not contain nacre and are often coated with a substance that mimics the appearance of a pearl's shine.
Distinguishing real pearls from fake ones requires an eye for detail. Real pearls have subtle variations in their shape, size, and color, whereas fake pearls often appear perfectly uniform. Here are some specific visual cues:
- Surface Texture: Real pearls are not perfectly smooth. They often have slight surface irregularities, such as tiny ridges or bumps, due to the natural formation process. Fake pearls, on the other hand, tend to have a flawless, glass-like surface.
- Luster: One of the most telling characteristics of real pearls is their luster. Real pearls reflect light in a deep, almost three-dimensional way, giving them a rich glow. Fake pearls may shine but often have a flat, reflective quality that lacks depth.
- Color Variations: While pearls come in a variety of colors, real pearls often exhibit subtle color variations or overtones. Fake pearls, especially lower-quality imitations, usually have a single, uniform color.
Beyond surface texture, luster, and color differences, here are additional distinctions between real pearls and fake pearls:
- Durability: Real pearls are more resilient but can be damaged by acids; fake pearls may be more susceptible to scratching or coating wear.
- Sound: When knocked together, real pearls make a soft, dull sound; fake pearls produce a hollow, clicking noise.
- Price: Real pearls, especially high-quality ones, command higher prices; extremely inexpensive "pearls" are almost certainly fake.
- Uniformity: Perfect matching in a strand often indicates fake pearls; real pearl strands show subtle variations.
Please note that we do not carry fake pearls at Brilliant Earth.
How to Tell if Pearls Are Real: 7 Expert-Approved Tests
There are a few simple, at-home tests that can provide a general sense for whether a pearl is real or not. However, these methods are not foolproof. For concrete verification, we recommend visiting a jeweler for professional testing.
At-Home Tests
Tooth Test
One of the most common ways to test pearls is the tooth test. Gently rub the pearl against the edge of your front teeth. A real pearl will feel slightly gritty or rough due to the layers of nacre, while a fake pearl will feel smooth or glassy.
Weight Test
Real pearls tend to be heavier than imitation pearls due to the density of their nacre. Hold the pearls in your hand and compare their weight. Fake pearls, especially those made from plastic, will feel noticeably lighter.
Magnifying Glass Test
Using a jeweler's loupe, examine the pearl’s surface closely. Real pearls will show minor imperfections, while fake pearls will have a smooth, uniform appearance.
Temperature Test
Real pearls tend to feel cool to the touch initially and warm up as they rest against your skin. Fake pearls, particularly those made from plastic, will feel warm right away.
Professional Tests
While at-home tests can provide helpful insight, an independent grading laboratory or professional jeweler can perform specialized tests or that can accurately authenticate a pearl.
Microscopic Analysis
A jeweler may also use a microscope to examine the pearl’s surface and internal structure. Under magnification, the natural crystalline structure of nacre is visible in real pearls, while fake pearls will lack this texture.
Refractometer Test
Real pearls have specific light refractive properties due to their organic composition. A refractometer can measure how light passes through the pearl, providing a more technical assessment of its authenticity.
Ultraviolet Light Test
When exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light, real pearls may fluoresce or glow slightly, depending on their origin. Imitation pearls generally do not fluoresce or may exhibit an unnatural glow.
