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How to Tell if Pearls Are Real

Discover how to tell real pearls from imitations with these expert-backed visual cues and simple tests for authenticity.

Real Pearls vs. Fake Pearls

Real pearls are formed naturally or through human intervention inside mollusks, such as oysters or mussels. There are two types of real pearls: natural and cultured. Natural pearls form without any human interference, and are in fact unavailable in today’s market, making them extremely rare and valuable. Cultured pearls are created when a foreign object is intentionally placed inside the mollusk to encourage the formation of a pearl. 

Real pearls consist of multiple layers of nacre, a substance produced by the mollusk to protect itself from irritants. This nacre builds up over time, resulting in a pearl's smooth surface, iridescent glow, and unique luster. 

In contrast, fake pearls, also known as imitation pearls, are crafted from various materials, such as glass, plastic, or resin. Unlike real pearls, fake pearls do not contain nacre and are often coated with a substance that mimics the appearance of a pearl's shine. 

Distinguishing real pearls from fake ones requires an eye for detail. Real pearls have subtle variations in their shape, size, and color, whereas fake pearls often appear perfectly uniform. Here are some specific visual cues: 

  • Surface Texture: Real pearls are not perfectly smooth. They often have slight surface irregularities, such as tiny ridges or bumps, due to the natural formation process. Fake pearls, on the other hand, tend to have a flawless, glass-like surface. 
  • Luster: One of the most telling characteristics of real pearls is their luster. Real pearls reflect light in a deep, almost three-dimensional way, giving them a rich glow. Fake pearls may shine but often have a flat, reflective quality that lacks depth. 
  • Color Variations: While pearls come in a variety of colors, real pearls often exhibit subtle color variations or overtones. Fake pearls, especially lower-quality imitations, usually have a single, uniform color. 

Beyond surface texture, luster, and color differences, here are additional distinctions between real pearls and fake pearls: 

  • Durability: Real pearls are more resilient but can be damaged by acids; fake pearls may be more susceptible to scratching or coating wear. 
  • Sound: When knocked together, real pearls make a soft, dull sound; fake pearls produce a hollow, clicking noise. 
  • Price: Real pearls, especially high-quality ones, command higher prices; extremely inexpensive "pearls" are almost certainly fake. 
  • Uniformity: Perfect matching in a strand often indicates fake pearls; real pearl strands show subtle variations. 

Please note that we do not carry fake pearls at Brilliant Earth.

Model wearing assortment of pearl earrings.

How to Tell if Pearls Are Real: 7 Expert-Approved Tests

There are a few simple, at-home tests that can provide a general sense for whether a pearl is real or not. However, these methods are not foolproof. For concrete verification, we recommend visiting a jeweler for professional testing.  

At-Home Tests

Tooth Test

One of the most common ways to test pearls is the tooth test. Gently rub the pearl against the edge of your front teeth. A real pearl will feel slightly gritty or rough due to the layers of nacre, while a fake pearl will feel smooth or glassy.  

Weight Test 

Real pearls tend to be heavier than imitation pearls due to the density of their nacre. Hold the pearls in your hand and compare their weight. Fake pearls, especially those made from plastic, will feel noticeably lighter.  

Magnifying Glass Test

Using a jeweler's loupe, examine the pearl’s surface closely. Real pearls will show minor imperfections, while fake pearls will have a smooth, uniform appearance.  

Temperature Test

Real pearls tend to feel cool to the touch initially and warm up as they rest against your skin. Fake pearls, particularly those made from plastic, will feel warm right away.

Model wearing assortment of pearl and diamond bracelets.

Professional Tests

While at-home tests can provide helpful insight, an independent grading laboratory or professional jeweler can perform specialized tests or that can accurately authenticate a pearl.  

Microscopic Analysis

A jeweler may also use a microscope to examine the pearl’s surface and internal structure. Under magnification, the natural crystalline structure of nacre is visible in real pearls, while fake pearls will lack this texture.  

Refractometer Test

Real pearls have specific light refractive properties due to their organic composition. A refractometer can measure how light passes through the pearl, providing a more technical assessment of its authenticity.  

Ultraviolet Light Test

When exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light, real pearls may fluoresce or glow slightly, depending on their origin. Imitation pearls generally do not fluoresce or may exhibit an unnatural glow.

Model wearing pearl necklace.

FAQ

Are cultured pearls real?

Yes, cultured pearls are real pearls. They form inside mollusks but with human intervention to start the process by inserting an irritant. They contain genuine nacre and have the same composition as natural pearls.

How much are real pearls?

Real pearl prices vary widely based on type, size, quality, and rarity. Strands of pearls can range anywhere from $50 to $100,000+.

Are freshwater pearls real?

Yes, freshwater pearls are absolutely real. They're formed in freshwater mussels that live in lakes, rivers, and ponds. They're more abundant than saltwater pearls, making them more affordable while still being genuine.

What do real pearls look like?

Real pearls have a distinctive deep luster with a slightly soft, glowing appearance rather than a sharp reflection. They show slight imperfections, subtle color variations, and no two pearls look exactly alike. Their surface appears slightly textured under magnification.

Are real pearls heavy?

Yes, real pearls are noticeably heavier than imitation pearls due to their dense calcium carbonate nacre composition. When holding similar-sized real and fake pearls, the weight difference is typically apparent.

Are colored pearls real?

Yes, colored pearls can be real. Many pearls naturally come in colors including white, cream, pink, lavender, black, gray, gold, and blue. Some colored pearls are treated or dyed, which reputable jewelers will disclose.

Are star pearls real?

"Star pearls" typically refers to mabe pearls (half-pearls) with star designs added to the back. True star-patterned pearls are extremely rare in nature. Most commercial star pearls are manufactured using real or imitation pearls with added designs.

Do real pearls chip?

Yes, real pearls can chip if dropped on hard surfaces or subjected to impact. Their calcium carbonate composition makes them durable but not indestructible. Their surface can also be damaged by acids, harsh chemicals, and perfumes.

Are real pearls round?

Some real pearls are round, but many are not. Perfectly round pearls are rarest and most valuable. Real pearls come in various shapes including near-round, off-round, drop, button, baroque, and irregular shapes. Shape variety is actually an indicator of authenticity.

Are real pearls smooth or rough?

Real pearls feel slightly gritty when rubbed against your teeth but appear smooth to the naked eye. Under magnification, they have a subtle textured surface with microscopic ridges and plateaus from nacre crystal formation.

Are real pearls cold to the touch?

Ral pearls initially feel cool to the touch and warm up slowly as they absorb body heat. This thermal conductivity differs from plastic imitations, which quickly warm to body temperature.

Are real pearls gritty on your teeth?

Yes, when gently rubbed against the edge of your teeth, real pearls feel slightly gritty or rough because of their nacre crystal structure. Fake pearls typically feel completely smooth or glassy against teeth. This "tooth test" is a classic pearl authentication method, but we always recommend taking your pearls to a professional for expert verification.